A happy Easter is just a few clicks away with online shopping. Delivery personnel delight in meeting your dogs. All you have to do is ensure that you get to the parcel before your pet does… here is what to get your dog for Easter.

How to celebrate Easter with your dog (what to get them)

Treats you can get your dog for Easter

There are a number of substitutes for chocolate, and your dog won’t even know what it is missing. Carob is tasty, and has the look and feel of chocolate. It is safe for dogs and can be molded into shapes that will fool even the most discerning dog. Hatchwells is a trusted brand name for dog Easter eggs (view on Amazon) that are made without cocoa or gluten. You can order a giant egg or a carton of a half dozen smaller eggs so that you can spread the treats out over the entire long weekend.

For a less traditional treat, on a warm spring day, try Puppy Scoops carob ice cream, also available on Amazon.

Hot cross buns that are safe for dogs are more difficult to acquire. You may have to import a batch or two, or consider making them yourself. Hopefully, you will have more success than the rock hard buns I produced. I gave one to my dog and he buried it! Try ordering from Whole Food Hounds in Australia. Browse their catalogue for other seasonal treats, too.

Toys you can get your dog for Easter

If your dog is on a diet, you may want to shift the emphasis to toys, rather than treats. Midlee has a set of plushies on Amazon, suitable for small dogs, in the form of a basket, bunny, egg and carrot. Each toy squeaks and can be hidden for the treasure hunt, and stored tidily in the basket afterwards.

Peeps for Pets has made the traditional American Easter candy available to dogs, in toy form (view on Amazon). These colourful bunnies come in vinyl or plushie form, with or without squeakers.

For larger dogs there are ropes and balls, that are designed to last a bit longer. These tennis balls, decorate with carrots will keep the memories of Easter alive for a while (click the image below).

These chew toys, designed to look like carrots, will keep your puppy occupied for hours. They are therapeutic for teething dogs. The rope helps to keep their teeth cleaned, soothes emerging molars and strengthens their jaw muscles. If you are travelling with your dogs, these chew toys will keep them occupied for many happy hours on the road. Again, click the image to see the prices and reviews.

What to get your dog to wear at Easter

In the age of Instagram, you want your dog to dress for the occasion. These Easter-themed bandanas will add to the festive cheer.

If Easter is earlier than usual or spring is late to arrive, you may consider an Easter bunny hoodie jacket such as this one from Amazon. It comes complete with bunny ears.

If your dog is a sociable animal, you may consider treating him or her to an Easter weekend at Holiday Barn Pet Resort. They provide a safe environment with plenty of exercise and pet-friendly Easter treats. Dogs have so much fun there, they will hardly miss you so you can spend a stress free time with human companions.

But just a word of warning…

Why Easter is dangerous for dogs

Pets are part of the family, and it is only fair that they be included in the festivities. However, not much of the traditional fare is suitable for canine consumption. Firstly, from a dog’s perspective, chocolate is a toxin. Train your family, from the toddler to grandma, not to cave in and feed the dog any part of an Easter egg. It could prove fatal.

If, heaven forbid, the egg is a low carbohydrate, artificially sweetened product, this could be doubly dangerous. Many dogs have died from ingesting even small amounts of xylotol.

The packaging of chocolate Easter eggs, particularly the foil covering and artificial grass trim, is not dog friendly. If your dog should ferret out any of the eggs hidden for the hunt, chances are good that they will swallow one or the other.

No matter how much your pooch begs, do not feed it hot cross buns. Grapes and their derivatives, such as raisins, are potentially hazardous for dogs, and can cause kidney injury or failure. Although the nutmeg in a hot cross bun may seem negligible, it does have hallucinogenic properties. Even small amounts could increase your dog’s heart rate and blood pressure.

Dogs’ digestive systems were not designed to process carbohydrates, especially refined flour and sugar. Leavened breads and buns are also likely to cause them to experience bloat which can be very uncomfortable. It may be tempting to ‘spoil’ Fido by giving him the lamb or pork leg bone to chew. It is never a good idea to give dogs large cooked bones as they tend to splinter and could pierce their intestines. The legs of the Cornish hen would be a better choice.

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But just how often do a dog’s teeth need cleaning? Well, in my view your dog’s teeth should be checked by a vet or dental professional annually. Ideally you want to avoid the need for its teeth to be ‘cleaned’ as this is an invasive, nerve-wracking, and often painful procedure.

A pass can be achieved through the regular practice of good dental hygiene, and by feeding your dog the correct diet. Routines include brushing your dog’s teeth, massaging the gums and supplying toys and chews that do the same.

The microbial war in your dog’s mouth

A dog’s saliva is thought to have healing properties. This is due to the ‘good’ bacteria and beneficial proteins that are present in its mouth. These help to naturally ward off infection. That is why you often see dogs licking themselves when they are injured or in pain.

The battle begins when ‘bad’ bacteria and other organisms are introduced, through diet and whatever else dogs put in their mouths. These can be harmful to man and beast, for example, the rabies virus and salmonella.

The bacteria most associated with periodontal disease in dogs, however, are variants of streptococcus, which are found in most animals. There are many strains of streptococcus bacteria that thrive in an environment where carbohydrate levels are high. They feed off the sugars that are broken down by saliva.

Streptococcus creates layers of sticky, acidic biofilm that adhere to the teeth and erode the enamel, causing cavities. Microscopic layers form within 24 hours and are collectively known as plaque. When sufficient layers have been produced, they become visible as an off-white or yellowish substance at the base of the teeth.

Besides tooth decay, plaque causes additional damage by sticking to the enamel under the gum. This can result in gingivitis or gum disease, a condition whereby the gums and tooth sockets become inflamed and enlarged. This in turn causes teeth to become loose and ultimately, to fall out.

If left unchecked, two things happen. Plaque becomes tartar, a brittle brown substance that is difficult to remove. By this stage your dog will be experiencing toothache and general discomfort when eating. The pH balance in its saliva will be too acidic, adding to the tooth decay, and its breath will start to smell.

Symptoms of poor dental hygiene in dogs may include:

• red, swollen or bleeding gums,
• visible plaque and tartar, causing the teeth to appear discoloured
• tooth decay or tooth loss
• constant bad breath
• a loss of appetite or reluctance to eat due to pain
• persistent panting and salivating or drooling

Sadly, if these symptoms are ignored, further systemic damage can result. Canine dental disease can cause liver damage, sepsis in the blood, bone infections and even heart problems. It has also been known to cause blindness, as infection spreads from the mouth to the eye sockets.

There are four stages of periodontal diseases, and it is estimated that the vast majority of household pets have some form of it. The disease can shorten your pet’s life by two years or more.

When should your dog have its teeth cleaned

Stage 1 of dental disease can be classified as gum disease or gingivitis. The gums are inflamed and swollen and there may be clear, visible boundaries between the healthy and unhealthy portions of the gums.

At stage 2, in addition to the gum disease, sufficient bone loss has occurred to show up on x-rays. Plaque and tartar are visible, and your dog’s breath is unpleasant. At this, and subsequent stages, professional cleaning is necessary to prevent further damage. If caught at this early stage, it may be possible to reverse the disease.

By stage 3, up to 50% of bone is lost, the dog’s gums bleed regularly and it has chronic bad breath. Teeth may become detached from the gums, forming periodontal pockets, which create opportunities for further infection.

The dog is in considerable pain and will most likely need to have teeth removed. At this stage, cleaning and other dental work will require that the dog be anaesthetised.

Stage 4 is potentially fatal as the risk of systemic infection and internal organ damage rise. This is caused by bacteria entering the bloodstream and spreading unchecked throughout the body. The dog is in severe pain, will find it difficult to eat and will consequently lose condition rapidly.

Good dental hygiene for dogs

There are a number of general practices that will help to prevent the onset of dental disease in your pets.

Do not feed your dog a diet rich in carbohydrates. Firstly, their digestive systems were not designed to process sugars and starch. Secondly, these create a friendly environment for the growth of streptococcus in the mouth. Thirdly, they create an acidic pH level in the saliva that will attack tooth enamel.

Restore the good bacteria in your dog’s mouth. Foaming cleansers, sprays and gels have been developed that deliver probiotics to the mouth.

Lower the acid levels in your dog’s saliva. Sprays and gels are also available for this purpose. They should be administered several times a week, making it difficult for streptococcus to take hold.

Natural alkaline remedies, such as bicarbonate of soda, white vinegar and citrus peels can also be used. Apply them to a swab and gently massage the teeth and gums.

Drinking water that is slightly alkaline will help to maintain the correct pH levels in the dog’s  mouth, and body in general. Ensure that your dog finds this fluid palatable, else it may be less inclined to drink water at all, and become dehydrated.

Regularly remove plaque before it can cause a build up on the teeth and gums. This can be achieved through frequently brushing or wiping the teeth with a swab. Ideally this should be done daily but if there are time constraints or massive resistance from the dog, 2-3 times a week will suffice.

There are several flavours of toothpaste available so you should be able to find one that appeals to your pup’s taste buds. It is best to start brushing a dog’s teeth at a young age so that it becomes accustomed to the routine.

Provide items for your dog to chew on during the day, such as toys, bones and dog chews, designed specifically for this purpose. Ensure that the toys and chews are produced without harmful chemicals and preservatives, by reputable manufacturers. Purchase them from reliable sources.

Dogs in the wild eat a carnivore diet, including bones. The act of chewing bones helps to clean their teeth and stimulate their gums. Choose bones without sharp edges, such as oxtail or joint bones.

The bones should always be raw. Cooked bones are more brittle, and more likely to splinter. Besides, cooking robs them of all their nutrients.

Massage your dog’s gum to improve circulation. This will strengthen the mouth’s defences, enabling them to respond quickly to combating disease. This can be achieved through manual massage with a swab or tooth brushing.

Specially designed feeding bowls are available on the market. They contain rubber protrusions that massage the gums and gently polish the teeth, while the dog eats. This helps to prevent the build up of malign substances on the teeth and gums, and has the added advantage of slowing down dogs who demolish their food within seconds.

Do a regular visual check on your dog’s teeth and have them seen by a professional at least once a year. This should be part of a routine, annual general check-up when your dog gets its annual vaccine and boosters.

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Which leaves us, their owners, with a disposal problem. Few options are open to urban dwellers. They can either place their pooch’s poo bags in designated doggy doo bins, or in the general refuse bins at home – which raises the question of whether it’s illegal to put dog poo in the garbage.

To confirm, it is not illegal to put dog poo in the garbage, whether that’s your own waste cans, or one you would find in public.

Having said that, those in the suburbs and countryside have wider options. Dog poo has also been used experimentally, exploiting its methane properties.

A brief history of dog poo (as if you wanted to know!)

In the wild, dogs live in packs and clean up after themselves. The carnivore diet they eat is almost wholly absorbed by their systems. Waste material is minimal and sends powerful signals to potential predators.
The dominant male will use his to mark the borders of the pack’s territory. All waste that indicates weakness, such as that of the young and very old, is eaten by pack members.
In urban areas, dogs are often fed on diets of convenience, which contain a great deal more starch and fibre than is required by a dog’s digestive system. This results in bulky stools with an indeterminate half-life.

Why we need a disposal system designed for dog waste

The canine carrying capacity of a square mile is 2 dogs. The average urban environment in the USA has 125 dogs. This calls for a waste disposal strategy. There are several reasons why stools cannot be left to litter the landscape.

Dog poo contains harmful pathogens

The US Center for Disease Control (CDC) has determined that a single mound of dog feaces can contain 3 million bacteria, plus viruses and parasites. The reason these pathogens are dangerous, is because they do not die when they leave the dog. Many of them remain viable for weeks after being eliminated.

The pathogens include bacteria, such as salmonella and e-coli, which have proven fatal to humans. The virulent rabies virus is zoonotic, meaning it can be transmitted to other mammal species, including humans. Other lethal viruses, such as parvovirus, distemper and canine hepatitus can be passed on to other domestic pets.

Parasites come in a range of sizes, from measurable masses of wriggling worms to microscopic colonies of Giardia. They all have unpleasant side effects for humans and household pets.

Dog poo contaminates ground water

A medium sized canine in the city will produce 180 kg (almost 400 lb) of poop per year. If left lying around until they break down, these feaces will finally dissolve in the rain and enter the ground water.

Firstly, they tend to be high in nitrogen and phosphorus which stimulate the rapid growth of algae. This results in oxygen depletion in the water, creating a toxic environment for aquatic animals.

Secondly, some of the pathogens that are excreted remain viable in water, and can contaminate a city’s water supply.

Thirdly, many dogs are fed synthetic dietary supplements, and some receive regular doses of medicines for chronic disease. Residues of these substances make their way through the dog and onto grass verges and pavements, and eventually into the water system.

Dog poo is too intense to be a fertiliser

When a pat produced by a grass fed cow breaks down, it is beneficial to the soil and feeds the grass being grazed.

Dog poo is acidic and too rich in nitrogen to be of direct benefit to your lawn or the city’s green belt. It needs to be broken down and neutralised, in a composting process that contains a balance of carbons and nitrogen.

Dog poo attracts vermin

Because of the high starch content in many commercial dog foods, there is sufficient nutrition left in dog poo to confuse even dogs themselves. Many return for a second go at their dinner.

It is the stuff of dreams for rodents, who can dine out for days on a single serving.

Random mounds of dog poo are not aesthetically pleasing

It depends on your taste in art, but most people do not consider it visually appealing when a public space or even a private garden is dotted with dog do. This is not to mention that much of it is malodorous, and emits methane, a flammable gas.

Nothing sticks like dog poo

If you’ve ever stepped in one of these urban landmines with a pair of running shoes, you will know how difficult it is to remove. It is usually discovered far from the scene of the crime, after a trail of residue has been left across the city. Invariably, traces are taken home with you.

Best ways to dispose of dog poo

Designated public bins

If you are walking your dog out in public, the first course of action is to scoop up the poop, immediately after it has been deposited on the ground. Good luck with the consistency and smell.

Fortunately, we live in an era when science has developed compostable, leak proof dog do bags. When used correctly, you will not get any of the substance on your hands. Alternatively, use a poop scoop, although these are cumbersome to carry around.

If your dog has diarrhea, sprinkle on some clumping cat litter. This will consolidate the extrusion, making it easier to gather up.

If there is a designated bin in the vicinity, dispose of the bag there. If not, you need to carry it home with you. Sadly, there are many people who, due to one or other unfortunate circumstance, may rummage in the garbage in regular refuse bins. We do not want to make life more unpleasant for them.

There is an urban legend about a stylish, elderly lady who used an old handbag to carry her dog’s deposits. One day she was robbed of the bag while walking in the park. Crime does not always pay.

In the correct bin at home

At home, you need to dispose of your dog waste in the general refuse bin which is destined for removal to a landfill site.

In some municipalities there is a dizzying array of colourful bins to choose from. Do not put it in the food bin, the garden waste bin or the recycling bin.
Also, do not dispose of it in your neighbour’s bin. In some areas, this can be misconstrued as trespassing or fly-tipping.

Composting

A compost pile that heats up sufficiently with kill any pathogens harbouring in dog poo. The pile needs to have a balance of carbons and nitrogen, or ‘green’ and ‘brown’ matter in order to break down the material aerobically.

It also needs the right amount of oxygen and moisture, to keep the bacteria alive that break down its contents. An imbalance will cause anaerobic breakdown which will take longer, and produce a stench greater than the original problem.

Use the resulting compost on non-edible plants only.

Worm farms

Vermiculture is a viable option for the disposal of dog poo. Worms eat all things organic and turn them into castings and worm wee, otherwise known as liquid gold. These are potent fertilisers that need to be diluted before being used on your garden.

As with the composting process, you want to mix in other materials that counterbalance the acidity.

How not to dispose of dog waste

Do not flush it down the toilet.

It goes without saying that if left in a common or garden poo bag, it will more than likely clog up your sanitation system. However, special flushable bags have been developed which should prevent this problem.

Nevertheless, many local authorities and utility companies do not allow the practice.

Do not flick it into the bushes.

Do not be tempted to get rid of your problem by hiding it under a bush. On its own, dog poop will contaminate the ground water, damage the vegetation where it falls, and spread pathogens to local wildlife.

In a plastic bag, it is an environmental hazard. Even compostable bags take much longer to degrade in the open, than in a controlled composting or landfill environment.

Do not burn it

If you live in a populated area, there are most likely ordinances that prevent you from burning waste of any kind. As a general rule, it causes air pollution. Dog feaces, in particular, produce methane gas when they decompose, which is flammable. You may end up with a fire that is harder to control than you thought. In an experimental project in a park in the United Kingdom, the methane in the dog poop collected has been harnessed, and used to fuel gas lights in the park.

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If your dog regularly comes into contact with other dogs, it’s possible to get it vaccinated against Bordetella, at least every six months. Most doggy day care centres and boarding kennels will insist on vaccination as a condition of entry to their premises and programs.

Kennel cough is generally not life threatening. Healthy dogs with strong immunity should recover from a bout in good time. For those with less robust systems, the process will be slow and painful.

Why dogs need a Bordetella shot?

There are many species of Bordetella bacteria. The three most common species affect dogs, humans, and other domesticated animals and birds, to varying degrees. The vaccine developed for dogs is targeted at combating Bordetella bronchiseptica, which has proved to be the most problematic of the species.

The vaccine has a high degree of success in preventing the spread of the bacteria. However, it is less than 100% effective, and there remains the possibility of your pet contracting one or more of the other species. Efficacy wanes fairly quickly, therefore your dog will need to be inoculated at least twice a year.

Bordetella is a virulent organism that is spread by coming into direct contact with saliva and other particles that may be coughed up by infected subjects. The bacteria reproduces rapidly and, if unchecked, will colonise the respiratory tracts of the host and spread swiftly to others.

The incubation period for bordetella is 3-10 days. An infected dog can shed viable bacteria for up to 4 months after incubation.

In dogs, the resulting condition is known as kennel cough. In humans, we call the effects, whooping cough. Most other types of mammalian pets, livestock and poultry are also susceptible to the effects of the bacteria.

The condition is highly infectious and is transmitted easily from one host to the next. It is generally not considered life threatening in healthy animals and humans, that have no underlying ailments.

If your dog has a robust metabolism and immune system, it may exhibit symptoms but not be fazed by kennel cough at all. It will eat and play as normal.

For very young or older dogs, or those with respiratory problems, the bacteria could reek havoc. Humans with health problems such asthma and cystic fibrosis could experience significant breathing problems if they contracted whooping cough.

The Bordetella vaccine is generally not mandated by authorities but it is strongly advised that you vaccinate your dog if it comes into regular contact with other animals. This may be at a day care centre, boarding kennel or even your local park.

Usually, the establishment which houses or cares for your dog will insist on your dog being being vaccinated, at least every six months. Young animals are particularly susceptible to Bordetella because they explore their environment with their mouths, and their immune systems are underdeveloped.

Inoculations are available in the form of injections, tablets and nasal spray.

Symptoms of kennel cough

Initially the bacteria will take hold in the throat area. In humans, this phase has been described as feeling like the beginnings of a common cold or the onset of influenza. The patient will have a sore throat and red, runny eyes. These will be followed by a fever, with a rising temperature as the body tries to fight off the invasion.

The bronchial tracts provide the ideal, moist and dark environment for the bacteria to thrive in. They multiply rapidly and soon colonise the respiratory tracts, causing an irritation in the upper chest.

The natural response to this is to cough. It is a dry, hacking cough even though the inflammation often causes a build up of mucous. The sound has been compared to that of a goose honking. The pain of the infection is exacerbated by the painful action of consistent coughing.

Coughing bouts are intense and may be followed by gagging. They recur frequently during the day and seemingly get worse at night. The force of the coughing may cause bleeding around the eyes. In humans the name of the disease is derived from the sound made when the patient gasps for breath at the end of each coughing spell.

Bouts of coughing could return periodically for several months after the infection. Also, having kennel cough once does not prevent your dog from contracting it again, from the same Bordetella species or another.

Treatment

The effects of a Bordetella infection can be exhausting for both man and beast. If your dog is resilient and healthy, it should recover seamlessly without medical intervention. For others, it will be a slow process.

If your dog is showing signs of lingering malaise, there are measures that you can take to speed up its convalescence.

1. Isolate your dog in a place where it can get proper rest, away from household pets and other distractions.
2. Administer an expectorant, or cough medicine. This will stimulate the production of mucous which helps to sooth the pain in the throat.
3. Make sure your dog drinks enough water. The jury is out on whether additional fluids are necessary to combat a fever. Some claim that the body retains moisture during a fever, and that excess fluids build up in the lungs and brain. Either way, be vigilant for signs of dehydration.
4. If possible, place a humidifier in the recovery area, to ensure that the air does not dry out.
5. The area should also be free of all pollutants that can act as irritants. Examples of these are dust, smoke, chemicals and exhaust fumes. Your garage would therefore not be conducive to convalescence.
6. Honey is said to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and can be used as a soothing cough treatment. It will provide much needed calories and nutrients for a dog who is reluctant to eat.
7. A fever is nature’s way of dealing with foreign bodies, and a rise in body temperature is an indication of the internal battle being waged. As far as possible, work with the fever to help your dog to overcome the problem. However, if your dog’s temperature rises too high, it will affect its nervous system and possibly cause it to have fits. A normal temperature for a dog is 3-4º Fahrenheit higher than that of a humans, at around 101ºF (38.5ºC). Above 103ºF (39.5ºC) is considered to feverish. At 106ºF (41ºC) or above, the situation becomes life threatening and requires prompt medical attention by a vet.
8. Antibiotics are effective against most bacteria and can therefore be used to combat a Bordetella infection. These will significantly speed up recovery and will help to prevent the development of secondary infections, such as pneumonia.

Antibiotics are not without side effects that need to be taken into consideration. They can have a long-term detrimental effect on gut health and cause subsequent digestive problems which need to be managed.

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Dental chews can help with your dog’s dental hygiene, while at the same time keeping your dog amused as they will brighten its day with the prospect of a treat. They are convenient prophylactics that work best when used once a day, after a meal.

There are caveats though about how often you should your dog dental chews… and there’s also no right or wrong answer as it will depend on the age and size of your dog.

As a rule of thumb though, I’d not give my dog more than one dental stick a day. But what I always advise is that you read what is on the back of the packet as each brand will have guidelines on dog weight, age, and size.

It’s also important that dental sticks should not be given to puppies under the age of 6 months (even when teething) and they need to be a reputable brand, bought from a reliable source. Although they may contain vital nutrients, they may also be high in calories.

Why dental sticks are important for dog dental hygiene

Dogs are not discerning eaters, and they lick unmentionable places on their bodies. A mutt’s mouth is a fertile breeding ground for all sorts of germs and parasites. Through rough play and curiosity, their teeth are also subject to injury and tooth decay.

Imagine what your mouth would feel like after a week of not brushing your teeth. Plaque and tartar will build up on the enamel, which will have a detrimental knock-on effect on your gums. Dogs need similar regular polishing or mildly abrasive action on their teeth and gums to keep them healthy.

If their diet is too soft this does not happen. Likewise, if their diet is too sugary, acid builds up in the mouth which erodes the enamel, causing tooth decay and painful cavities.  1

Bacteria can take hold in the mouth and make their way into the dog’s digestive system and other organs. The liver, heart and kidneys are most often affected. They take undue strain and compromise the dog’s overall condition. Many canine pets have had their lives cut short due to a lack of dental hygiene.

What are dog dental chews made from?

Dog chews are supplements that are designed to simulate the motion of chewing on a bone, as dogs would do in the wild. The best dog chews offer some resistance and last for a period.

They may be edible or non-edible. The non-edible dog dental chews tend to be made from hard synthetic substances such as rubber, plastic or nylon. Your dog will bite off bits and discard them where it lays. These substances are not meant to be ingested, at least not in chunks or large quantities.

Edible dog dental chews are made from natural substances, not all of them what humans would call palatable. They are however generally harmless when swallowed. Ingredients include dried meat and cheese, and rawhide. Cow hooves, which are rich in lean protein, are also an option.

Some chews are intended to be consumed in one session while others are intended to last longer.

How do dog dental chews work?

The mechanical process of repetitive chewing gently massages the gums and removes stubborn detritus around the base of the teeth. This action prevents the build-up of dense plaque. If plaque is allowed to take hold, it gives ground to tartar which can only be removed by a vet.

The chewing action also stimulates the production of saliva and increases blood circulation in the mouth. This helps to more actively fight bacteria that may be lurking in between the teeth.

Some dental chews perform additional functions such as freshening your dog’s breath. Some edible brands are nutrient rich and contain extra vitamins and minerals to boost your dog’s immunity. The chews can also be used as treats, or to relieve your dog’s anxiety or boredom.

What precautions should you take?

Make sure to purchase a reputable brand of dog chews, from a reputable source. There have been reports of pets dying after chewing cheaper, imported products from novelty stores and other dubious outlets.

Even if the brand and source are reliable, slowly introduce your dog to the product. One of my dogs developed an upset stomach after I gave her a small portion of a chew, over consecutive days. We never know how animals will react to new substances. If your dog shows any form digestive stress, such as vomiting or diarrhea, stop issuing the chew until it has been eliminated as the cause of the problem.

Be like Goldilocks and make sure the chew is just chewable enough. If it is too soft, it will be consumed too quickly and will not have the desired affect on your dog’s teeth and gums. If it is too hard, it could prove to be too abrasive and damage tooth enamel.

Start young dogs, i.e., over the age of 6 months, on softer dog chews. The enamel on their teeth and the flesh on their gums is less hardy than those of older dogs, and more likely to be wounded by rough treatment. They do not have the common sense necessary to stop a pleasurable action if it becomes painful.

If the chew is brittle, large pieces could break off and cause problems, when swallowed. This is particularly true of synthetic products which will not be broken down by your dog’s digestive juices.

Natural products such as rawhide, dried meat, flavoured cheese and cowhide may start to decay if they last too long. Your pet will most likely think this is an improvement on the original product, but the smell will make your home a little less welcoming.

On the other hand, you want to be wary of products that use preservatives to ensure that they last longer. This is particularly relevant to rawhide products.

Cow hooves tend to last longer than other organic chews as dogs typically do not finish them in one sitting. Hooves left lying around can be hazardous, as the edges become sharp, and can cause pain to anyone who steps on them.

You want chews that last a reasonable length of time. They also need to hold the dog’s attention long enough for the saliva and blood circulation to be effective.

If the dog chew is edible and intended to be a treat, check the calorie content and the constituent ingredients. If they are too starchy, sugary or high in calories, these will not be digested well. They can prove to be detrimental to your dog’s overall metabolic health and possibly lead to obesity.

Give your dog the appropriate size chews. For example, do not give a large dog a small object as they may swallow it whole and choke, or cause a blockage in their intestines.

Other dental hygiene practices

If possible, teach your dog when it is young to endure having its teeth brushed. There are tasty and tempting tooth pastes on the market that could make your task easier. Make sure to use the correct toothbrush, i.e. not too soft or too hard.

Food bowls have been designed that make it a little more difficult for dogs to devour their food in an instant. Protruding nodules slow down the eating process while at the same time massaging the gums.

Cooked bones are never a good idea as a treat for your dogs as they become brittle and can splinter in your dog’s gut. Certain raw bones are good as a chew treat. These are the neck, head and feet bones, known in some cultures as ‘walkie talkies’. Chicken feet in particular are high in collagen and helpful for dogs with stiff joints.

Monitor your dogs when they are chewing bones so that you can react quickly if one should choke, or if a dispute arises between two or more of them.

Much like we humans, dogs need regular dental check ups. Ask your vet to give your dog a thorough dental examination during its annual routine visit.

Cleaning a dog’s teeth and gums will be difficult if your pet is not used to regular tooth brushing. It could turn out to be an unpleasant and expensive exercise, possibly requiring anaesthetic.

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• The doggy toothbrush I recommend

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But it does make me wonder why dogs eat rabbit poop, as surely it can’t be a tasty treat… although I admit it can look like kibble. Here’s the short answer followed by some interesting detail and warnings.

Dogs eat rabbit poop because they are food motivated, greedy, and curious. Rabbit poop has interesting smells in it, and your dog could like the taste. Rabbits eat vegetation, as do some dogs. But it could mean your dog lacks some nutrition in their diet.

Should you be worried about your dog eating rabbit poop?

The answer is both yes, and no. The reason for that is lower down the page, where I explain what happens if dogs eat rabbit poop, and why they are so attracted to eating it.

Why did my dog eat rabbit poop?

Studies have shown that one in six dogs indulge in eating poop on a regular basis. And they really aren’t fussy either, eating their own poop, rabbit poop, or more disgustingly… the poop of other dogs!

But you will be happy to hear that most vets do not consider the behavior to be a source of concern.

The reasons why dogs eat rabbit poop, or even their own, are manifold.

The behavior starts off in the whelping box when a mother cleans her pups. These pups may become socialised and continue the practice. Dogs also eat poop because they are curious, anxious, hungry, or ill.

There are problems associated with our pampered pooches wolfing down rabbit poop, but not as many as you would think. However, it does make you think twice about kissing one of these perpetrators, or letting it lick your plate.

How common is canine rabbit poop consumption?

The scientific term for this behaviour in general is ‘Coprophagia’. When an animal eats the poop of its own species, it is known as ‘Conspecific Coprophagia’. According to a web-based survey conducted in 2012, one in four dogs occasionally eat poop, while one in six are regular partakers. The behaviour seems to be more prevalent in multi-dog households.

It is generally considered to be harmless and has not been correlated to a lack in the dog’s diet. Supplements will not cure this behaviour.

It has been thought that Coprophagia can lead to the spread of infectious diseases or intestinal parasites from one animal to another.

Others believe that the consequences are lessened somewhat because dogs tend to prefer dining on fresh dung, which does not allow the parasite eggs time to mature.

In addition, many diseases and even parasites, are species specific, and therefore will not be transmitted from one species to another. Dogs have a greater chance of contracting diseases if they eat the actual carcass of a dead animal, something that most dogs are not averse to doing.

The fibre in thoroughly digested inter-species dung may even benefit your dog’s digestive system.

Each case needs to be judged on the condition of the dog, and any symptoms displayed. These include problems such as vomiting, diarrhea, and lethargy. In the long term, look for a dull coat, itchy or broken skin, and weight loss.

If your dog suddenly starts eating rabbit poop, this change in behavior should be brought to the attention of your vet.

More reasons why dogs eat rabbit poop / their own poop

1. Protecting their dens

In the wild, wolves clean around their dens by eating the faeces of their pack members. This helps to hide the smell of the den and keeps away curious predators.

As much as dogs and their ancestors gather information from scents they pick up, their predators can also tell whether there are vulnerable, young, or sick animals that they can capture easily.

2. Removing pathogens and parasites

Wolves also clean up after their sick family members so that whatever is plaguing them does not spread to the whole pack. Pathogens, and parasite eggs in fresh dung, do not have long enough to incubate, and are rendered harmless by passing through the gut of a healthy animal.

3. Mothers and their pups

Many of us have observed mothers eating the umbilical cords of their newborn pups, and licking them as soon as they pee or poop. This serves to keep the whelping box clean, and also helps to stimulate the passage of any waste products through the pups’ digestive and urinary systems.

4. Socialisation

Puppies of a very young age are not aware of what their mothers are doing. If her behaviour persists when they are older and more alert, they may pick up the habit from her and become poop eaters themselves.

5. Curiosity

Puppies, like human infants, explore the world with their mouths. Poop is just another object of curiosity. If they acquire the taste, this behaviour may persist.

6. Boredom

If a pup’s environment is impoverished and they have little else to explore, they may continue to fixate on their own poop, and that of their litter mates. They may also continue doing so if their diet is boring.

Mature dogs that are kept on a chain or confined to a small space may also resort to eating their own faeces.

7. New sensations

Poop scavenging will extend into canine adulthood if the opportunity presents itself. When dogs explore the habitats of other species, the taste, texture and smell of rabbit poop will pique their interest, and they be will tempted to give it a try.

8. It is desirable

Many dogs have the luxury of sharing a household with a cat. The litter box is a source of protein-laden treats, on demand. Many multi-species homeowners have marvelled at the cleanliness of their cat trays.

Out on a country walk, fresh, solid dung is a firm favourite, surpassed only by that frozen winter delicacy, known as ‘poopsicles’. These are particularly easy to spot after fresh snowfalls.

Looking for rabbit and sheep pellets, in any season, is like going on a treasure hunt, whereas carnivore dung is much sought after, for its protein content.

Rolling in foreign faeces is an added benefit, the human equivalent of picking up a souvenir on your travels. Fox poop is first prize, on all counts.

9. They think it’s a game

If you object to this sort of rabbit poop fest, and chase after your dog, arms flailing, it may just be seen as a delightful game to play. Your dog will run off with the prize, attempting to swallow it all before you get can catch up.

Of course, the fun is amplified if you have more than one miscreant, as they will head off in different directions, and you will never win. They will look for opportunities to repeat the spectacle.

10. Stress

One of the reasons that dogs may feel poop-related stress occurs when the owner overreacts to their dog pooping in the wrong place. The dog will eat their own poop to remove the evidence and thereby escape punishment.

Dogs are sociable animals and may also feel stress when isolated or left alone for long periods of time, without solace. They may eat their own poop as a self-soothing mechanism.

11. Hunger

Greedy dogs and those that are perpetually hungry are more likely to be poop-eaters. Their stimulus-response mindset makes them less discerning.

If your dog is constantly needing to eat, the cause needs to be investigated. There may be underlying metabolic problems, such as diabetes, thyroid problems, or Cushing’s disease, which is caused by too much cortisol in the system.

12. Undigested food

There are several manufacturers of dog food that do not meet the exact requirements needed by a dog’s digestive system. Dogs have short digestive systems that cannot extract nutrients out of grain and other starchy products. These pass through the dog’s system undigested and end up on your lawn.

The smell, shape and consistency of the substance going in the dog’s mouth often looks remarkably similar to that which passes out its back end. The dog gets confused and has another go at digesting the ‘pellets’.

This is not uncommon in the animal kingdom. Rabbits, for example, produce two types of pellets. Those produced at night, contain residual nutrients, and are intended for later consumption. The daytime production has been thoroughly digested and contains only fibre. Unfortunately, most dogs do not have access to the night-time specials.

13. Their poop is too near their food

In the wild, wolves and dogs will keep their living quarters clean, and will distinguish between their feeding area and their toilets. If dogs have no control over their environment, they may get confused between their food and their waste, and end up eating the latter, if they are too close to each other.

What happens if a dog eats rabbit poop?

From vet journals I have read, I don’t believe dogs usually get sick from eating rabbit poop. I do recommend you ask your own vet though to be 100% certain. Here’s what one vet says:

“It is important to note that eating rabbit droppings does not mean that your dog has a dietary deficiency; it’s just a gross habit.  In addition, the types of parasites that rabbits can pass in their stool, do not cause infections in dogs.”

Can a dog get leptospirosis from eating rabbit poop?

Dogs can get leptospirosis from contaminated water. I also know that rabbits can carry it, so if you are worried, this is really a question you need to ask a professional.

Conclusion

Dogs eat disgusting stuff, like roadkill, old bones, and the most unsavoury of all, rabbit poop!

In most cases, it’s nothing to worry about. But some dogs will get diarrhea and vomit from it – if this happens call a vet.

You might also like…

• Why you dog’s breath smells like metal
• How to tell if your dog does not respect you

The post Why Do Dogs Eat Rabbit Poop? (The Weird Reasons) appeared first on French Bulldog Owner.

However, when the older dog is biting the puppy neck, it can be hard to understand where play stops, and aggression starts. It’s a concern, as a dog’s neck is an area where damage can be done if neck biting is too hard.

But please don’t get too worried. In most cases, when a dog bites another dog’s neck, it’s not something to be concerned about, unless the dog neck biting dominance ratchets up a level… all of this is explained below.

Why do dogs bite each other’s necks?

When a dog bites another dog’s neck it’s perfectly normal behavior and is usually a part of their play. Our older dog is biting our puppy’s neck quite gently during play – it’s mouthing, the type a dog might do with your hand.

But keep an eye on things because play can quickly turn to aggression. In fact, some dogs will try to exert dominance over the other. This is what’s called dog neck biting dominance, and is used in play, but more aggressively during a fight.

As an owner of dogs, you need to know what the subtle clues are when dog neck biting can change from play to aggression. Your dogs will give off body language to show how they are feeling during the behavior.

So, that’s a very simple overview of what it means when a dog bites another dog’s neck or puts his mouth around the other’s neck. If you want to know when a little nibble is likely to turn into a nasty bite or neck wound, possibly even with a shaking motion… it’s all here.

Is it normal to see a dog pinning another dog down by the neck?

There are two occasions when you might see a dog pinning another dog down by the neck. One is play; one is aggression. Providing it’s play, there’s nothing to worry about unless it escalates to neck biting combined with shaking of the neck and head.

You need to know when the time to intervene is… here’s what the two look like and differ.

Dog neck biting during play

Dogs of all ages will play fight. It’s a release for them, and when older dogs bite at puppies during play, it’s part of the learning process, and a little bit of dominance thrown in for good measure.

This play teaches puppies how to use bite inhibition. This is where they bite, but with no bite force, and more of a gentle mouthing action. Puppies will quickly learn what the boundaries are and when aggression isn’t something to be used.

Older dogs will also bite at a puppy’s neck just to gently show them who is boss in the home.

Play fighting and neck biting helps dogs (and younger puppies in particular) learn how to socialize with each other. They might run about with the zoomies after each other, do little growls, and wrestle with each other – it’s all just harmless play time.

How do you know the dog neck biting is harmless play?

If you know your dogs, you will know what their happy expressions are. However, if it’s a stranger’s dog doing the pinning down, you might not be so sure. Thankfully there are some shared traits happy dogs all over the world have when playing.

When happy during play neck biting, dogs will:

• Play bow to the other dog or lean into the action.
• Open themselves up to the other dog to invite a play attack.
• Bounce and frolic during the play session.

These are all signs that your dog is ok with another dog biting his neck.

How do you know the dog neck biting is aggression instead?

This is where dog neck biting dominance can turn into aggression. One of the dogs involved might be scared, startled, feeling threatened territorially, or even being protective towards the owner.

When neck biting is aggression rather than play, there are also signs here to watch for. These include:

• Snarling and growling harshly.
• Baring of the teeth.
• Hackles raised.
• Staring and flattened ears.
• Shaking the head whilst biting at the neck.

Then the dog who is having his neck bitten will also show signs that this is not play, and something more serious. These include:

• Yelping and crying.
• Turning their head and body away from the other dog.
• Seeking to hide behind your legs.

The moment you see a dog biting another dog’s neck and shaking it, the two need to be separated. But do not put your own body between them, as you might get hurt.

One of the more successful ways of parting two fighting dogs is the wheelbarrow technique. Drag the aggressive dog’s hind legs and start to pull them backwards towards you.

This aggressive neck biting will often stem from:

• Excitement.
• Pain.
• Fear.
• Possessiveness.
• Prey drive.

Bite inhibition and neck biting

Now you know what to look for, I wanted to go back to play. Earlier I made a point about bite inhibition. This is where your dog controls the amount of force they use when biting down.

Puppies will start to learn about bite inhibition when they are still with their mother and their siblings. Just like human babies, puppies learn about the world around them by using their mouths… putting things in the mouth, chewing, and biting down.

They will also start to playfight with the other puppies, and this is where bite inhibition is learned.

Bite inhibition is not just something used in play though. It also helps puppies and dogs to carry things gently without damaging it. For example, a dog will use less bite force carrying a soft toy than it would a ball.

By learning to control the power like this, they can transfer it to play when pinning another dog down by the neck… gently does it!

So, when you do see your dog pinning another dog down by neck and they appear to be happy, just let them carry on. They won’t bite hard enough to cause a cut, unless it develops into a real fight.

Handy Hint: Did you know that there’s an Internet rumour that the bite force of a Chihuahua to be the strongest in the dog world! Here’s the truth about that one.

How to stop dog from biting other dogs’ necks?

Aside from the drastic action I described earlier where you need to separate the dogs, it’s far better to stop your dog biting other dog’s necks before it happens. This means you need to look at the root causes of why your dog is biting and shaking other dog necks.

Dominance and aggression in dogs will also be due to something. It could be an underlying health issue, anxiety, or fear. I am not a vet, so recommend you talk to them first about worrying behavior like this.

Dog trainers can also help you to curb aggression and will give you tasks to practice which will help your dog to be more social around other dogs.

As a temporary solution, I recommend you buy the dog a muzzle (view on Amazon) – only for when you’re in public with the risk of meeting other dogs. At least that way you know your dog will not be able to bite other necks.

Conclusion

Dogs love to bite each other’s necks. It’s all part of the play and will include nibbling, mouthing, and even little growls. It might even look very rough at times. Our two dogs look like they are at Wrestlemania when they do it.

In conclusion, unless the neck biting dominance and play turns aggressive, there’s no reason to try stop it.

Just be vigilant and look for any signs it could turn.

You might also like…

• Why dogs like to bite at your feet and ankles as you walk
• Reasons why dogs get metallic smelling breath
• What happens when dogs eat rabbit poop

The post Dog Neck Biting Dominance: Why Your Dog is Pinning Another Down appeared first on French Bulldog Owner.

But, before I go on, please don’t assume that the metal or iron like smell from your dog’s mouth is blood. Often, we associate blood with a metallic taste, so you might think your dog’s breath smells like blood… but that’s not what this is. Here’s the short answer first, then more detail lower down the page.

Why does my dog’s breath smell like metal? Dogs’ breath can smell metallic for several reasons. The most common is due to their anal glands, and the most serious reason is kidney failure.  

The metallic dog breath (like ammonia) can be caused by a build-up of toxins not being filtered by kidneys.

But before you freak out, this isn’t the only reason why a dog’s breath smells metallic, there are other more benign reasons too, all of which I will explain below… with the most common being a smell transferred to their mouth from their anal glands.

If you are worried though, please consult with your vet.

Why does my dog’s breath smell like metal?

Metallic dog breath has many causes so it might not be necessarily a serious health problem such as kidney problems. Here’s are alternatives reasons as to why your dog’s breath smells like iron or metal.

1. The metal smell is due to diet high in protein and meats

Some dogs will have metallic smelling breath due to their diet. You might also think your dog’s breath smells like blood depending on your own sense of smell.

If your dog eats a lot of protein and meats, the protein can come back up into their mouth resulting in that smell. You might consider mixing the diet up a bit to not be to protein concentrated.

Handy Hint: If you do get a diagnosis that the metallic smelling breath is kidney related, here’s what vets recommend dogs with this condition need to eat.

2. The metallic smell is blood

Perhaps it is a smell of blood in your dog’s mouth. Have a check and see what they have been chewing on – toys and rawhide can cause mouth lacerations and bleeding.

The places most susceptible to wounds are the roof of the mouth and on their gums.

3. The metal smell is due to anal glands

One of the more disgusting reasons for your dog’s breath smelling like metal is their anal glands. This might sound strange, but it’s quite simple… they lick their own behinds.

Both male and female dog will get metallic smelling breath, like iron, where they have licked their but after the anal glands have leaked.

This isn’t the most pleasant of topics, but it needs discussing.

Anal glands are a pair of sacs positioned either side of your dog’s anus. They contain a smelly fluid that is oily to the touch. It will occasionally secrete out of the glands with the smell being compared to fish, ammonia, blood, iron, or metal.

This isn’t a problem, it’s entirely natural.

The smell that comes from the anal glands is your dog’s own personal trademark. When he defecates, his poop will have this unique smell, it’s a calling card and lets dogs know who’s been where.

Anal glands are how a dog marks territory and how dogs identify each other.

This is also what is happening when dogs greet each other and smell each other’s buts. It’s all about the anal gland smell.

So, how does this translate into your dog’s breath smelling like metal?

Well, if your dog is biting or licking at their anal region, that smell of the anal glands will then transfer to their breath.

Handy Hint: Sometimes vets will offer to express a dog’s anal glands if they become impacted and sore. Here’s my take on whether this is necessary.

But this could mean that your dog has anal sac disease is the smell is frequent and very strong of metal.

If you do have any concerns, talk to your vet.

Anal glands can become impacted and leak due to the following reasons:

Possible causes of impacted anal glands

Several risk factors can cause a dog to suffer from impacted anal glands. The UK Kennel Club say this:

“Anal glands can fill for several reasons; most commonly when there hasn’t been enough pressure to empty the glands, such as, after a few days of diarrhoea. Whenever they haven’t emptied properly, there’s a chance that glands can become blocked, impacted, and swollen. If they’re impacted for too long, they can build up nasty bacteria, causing pain, increased swelling and sometimes even abscesses and fever.”

4. The metal smell is due to a dental problem

Another reason for dogs having metallic smelling breath can be a dental issue. This can include rotting gums and teeth or an infection. This is most common in older dogs.

It could also possibly be an ulcer in the mouth, so see if your dog will let you check.

Why does my dog’s urine smell like metal?

At the top of the article, I explained how metallic smelling breath in a dog can be due to them having a kidney problem. Hopefully this won’t be the case with your dog, but if you also smell metal around their urine, you should investigate it further.

This can affect both male and female dog urine smelling like metal or iron.

Incidentally, another sign of kidney disease is an ammonia-smelling breath.

Other reasons why a dog smells like metal (not the breath)

It might not just be your dog’s breath that smells metallic. The odor could be coming from their fur or elsewhere. Here are the other reasons why your dog smells like metal:

• Dog has rolled in something, or anal gland secretions are on the fur.
• Blood from an injury on their body somewhere.

Conclusion

In my experience, the most common reason for dog breath smelling like metal will be from where they have licked their backsides and transferred odors from the anal glands to their mouth.

While this is the most common in both male and females, your dog’s metallic smell is not always the fault of the anal glands. Read on to find out why else your dog could be smelling like iron or metal.

But it might not be.

The next time you smell metal, iron, or blood on your dog’s breath, give them the quick once over to check for injuries not just inside the mouth, but also around their body.

If there’s nothing visible, check for a foul smell towards their rear.

If it’s not the anal glands causing the metallic breath smell, perhaps it’s their diet.

Either way, if it does persist, pleased consult a vet for a professional opinion. 

You might also like… 

• How and when you should clean the boogers from a dog’s eye
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The post Dog’s Breath Smells Metallic (or Like Iron & Blood) appeared first on French Bulldog Owner.

But please don’t panic just yet. Many dogs, and dog breeds, will breathe fast through their nose while sleeping, and there’s nothing unusual about it. Below you can find out what the rapid and heavy sleep breathing might mean, and whether you should act.

Why does my dog breathe heavy when sleeping?

In most cases, your dog will be breathing fast through his nose when asleep because he’s in the REM stage… aka REM (rapid eye movement) sleep. This is something that us humans do, and our canine friends. We and dogs will breathe a lot quicker during REM sleep, and this often manifests itself with short and quick breaths through the nose.

“Dogs sleep more than people do, Coren told Live Science, and they have a particular penchant for catnaps. But the structure of their sleep looks remarkably human: Like humans, dogs cycle through stages of wakefulness, rapid-eye-movement (REM) sleep and non-rapid-eye-movement sleep.” LiveScience.com, What Do Dogs Dream About?

Interestingly, dogs are more inclined to breath heavily and fast through their nose during sleep as puppies, and older dogs. Dogs in the middle years aren’t as likely to breathing heavily through nose while sleeping at all.

So, it’s very normal.

But, in some cases it can be a sign of a potential health problem, so you need to know what to look for if your dog is breathing heavily through their nose whilst sleeping.

According to various veterinary websites, monitor the fast nose breathing. Does it last for just a few minutes? If so, it’s probably fine. But, if your dog breathes fast through their nose all night and all the time, that could be the significant.

But just what is it about your dog’s rapid breathing that is the difference between a deep REM sleep or a possible concern? Well, here’s what all those vets that I read up on said.

When is heavy nose breathing in sleep normal for dogs?

The Live Science website say dogs go into the REM sleep about 20 minutes after they nod off. At this point you might start to see your dog breathing heavily through his nose, or breathing fast through his nose while sleeping.

You might also notice some other tell-tale signs they are in REM, which when matched up with the heavy and fast breathing is perfectly normal.

• Fast breathing through the dog’s nose (or the mouth).
• Deeper and heavier breathing than is usual.
• Body twitches including kicking out and stretching.
• Moving of their paws in a padding motion (as if they are dreaming about swimming).
• Barking and whimpering in their sleep.

If you see this happening with your dog for a few minutes, then you should not be alarmed. It’s normal behavior, particularly if they wake up after and don’t appear to be acting differently to usual.

If your dog is in a deep sleep, and in the throes of REM with that breathing fast through the nose, don’t jolt them awake. If they are in a dream they could react and lash out if surprised.

When is heavy nose breathing in sleep a cause for concern then?

If your dog is breathing fast through their nose in sleep or after physical exertion when awake, it’s perfectly normal. However, times to possibly speak with a professional about rapid nose breathing would include the following…

“Resting/sleeping breathing rates that are consistently greater than 30 breaths per minute are increased and considered abnormal. For some individuals, rates lower than 30 breaths per minute may be considered increased and abnormal by your veterinarian. Ask your veterinarian what rate is considered increased and abnormal for your dog.” VCA Hospitals, Home Breathing Rate Evaluation

How fast should a dog breathe while sleeping?

Based on the advice from VCA animal hospitals, count how many fast or heavy breaths you dog is having in a minute. If it’s more than 30 breaths per minute, then ask your vet to make a diagnosis.

With dogs like French Bulldogs and other Brachycephalic breeds it’s more important to keep a close eye on why your dog is breathing fast through their nose during sleep. If they start to breathe very rapidly and heavily, they will start to struggle and it’s the sign of a possible issue to be looked at.

Related questions on breathing and sleeping

Hopefully the insight into why your dog is breathing heavily though his nose while sleeping has given you some peace of mind. There are other things that dogs do when asleep that can also worry new owners… here’s all you need to know.

How many hours in a day should a dog sleep?

On average, a breed like a French bulldog will sleep for 13 hours a day. Our dog will quite happily sleep all night for up to 10 hours, and then have more naps in the day.

However, puppies will sleep a lot longer.

If you have a puppy, not only will they breathe heavily through their nose while sleeping but will also need to sleep up to a mammoth 20 hours in a day!

“Similar to babies, puppies will play and explore their new surroundings until they drop. Therefore, they might need up to 18 to 20 hours of sleep to recharge their batteries. Because they aren’t yet physically capable of going for long stretches overnight without relieving themselves, they will require a sleep schedule.” American Kennel Club, Should I Let My Dog Sleep Late Every Day

Older dogs will also need a lot of sleep as they will tire easier as they age. This is normally of no concern, unless you see other changes in habits – for example digestive issues, crying in the night, and other unusual things.

Why do dogs sleep so much?

Dogs need more sleep than their human owners, so to us it looks like they sleep a lot. Unlike us they don’t feel like they are slaves to routines, so will sleep when their body tells them it’s tired.

According to PetMd.com, sleep is very important to our furry friends:

“All day long, electrical activity is happening in our brain, and random, disorganized data gets stored in various places,” says Dr. Nicholas Dodman, professor emeritus at Tufts University. “We organize that in our sleep, and dogs do, too. It’s very therapeutic, and if you deny dogs that, they’ll kind of lose it.” 

It’s also thought that if a dog doesn’t get enough sleep, it can develop a bad mood. Sounds familiar doesn’t it!

This is particularly true with larger breeds who will need more sleep due to their size and the energy they use up. Older dogs also need more sleep, but for different reasons.

Do dogs dream?

It’s believed that dogs do indeed dream.

Scientists have tested canine brain waves and found that when sleeping, dogs exhibit similar deep sleep and REM like us, which could indicate your dog is dreaming.

But that doesn’t mean they dream like we do.

Dogs are said to spend 10% of their total REM sleep compared to us who spend 25% in REM. As they spend less time in the dream state, it’s possible that their dreams are more simplistic than ours.

Is my dog having a seizure or dreaming?

When you dog starts breathing heavily through his nose while sleeping, with rapid and fast breaths, it’s natural to think that something might be wrong with him.

Seizures can also be quite similar to the behavior that dogs exhibit whilst dreaming. But it’s important to understand that a dog having a seizure will probably have stronger physical reactions in sleep.

If the dog wakes up and is sleepy, it’s likely a dream.

On the other hand, if your dog wakes up and is confused and anxious, that could point to something more serious.

Conclusion

In conclusion, if your is dog breathing heavily through his nose when sleeping, it isn’t typically something to worry about providing it’s not a constant thing.

Fast breathing through the nose while sleeping is very natural but should only last for a few minutes. Longer than 10 minutes and they should be out of the REM stage of sleep.

If the fast and heaving breathing in sleep does last longer than this, and you see other strange symptoms, check in with your vet just to be sure.

You might also like…

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Image in header via https://pixabay.com/photos/labrador-retriever-dog-pet-animal-7004193/

The post Dog Breathing Heavily Through Nose While Sleeping (w/ Fast Breaths) appeared first on French Bulldog Owner.

Of course, you will already be feeding your puppy 3 times a day to aid this development, but there comes a point where you need to transition the puppy from 3 meals to 2. Knowing when to switch puppy to 2 meals a day is important so not to under or overfeed them.

When do you stop feeding puppy 3 times a day? You can stop feeding your puppy 3 times a day and transition to 2 meals typically from 6 months older. At this age most puppies can switch to 2 meals a day but do keep them on puppy up until 12 months old.

That’s a very generic answer I’ve given you, but it’s important to know more as puppies can develop so quickly, and not all puppies are the same either. There’s more detail below which explains when to start feeding a puppy twice a day so you can get it right for your pooch with the correct feeding amounts.

When to stop feeding puppy 3 times a day

Switching your puppy to 2 meals a day typically occurs around 6 months of age. At this point in their development, they have been burning energy and calories like crazy, with a need to be fed 3 times so they can grow properly.

At size months, most (but not all puppies) will start to become less frantic, will use less energy, and therefore you should consider stopping feeding your puppy 3 times a day.

Some people don’t though – for example, our own dog was very active up until 7 months, so we took the decision to not switch our puppy from 3 meals to 2 until then.

But, when we spoke to our vet, he told us we should have done it at 6 months anyway as he was no longer growing as fast as he was before.

Once your puppy does make the transition from 3 meals to 2, make sure you get advice from your vet or follow the feeding amount guidelines found on the side of commercial dog food. This will mean your puppy gets the right amount of food and nutrients needed for their next phase of development.

When are the best times to feed your puppy?

The most common feeding times for puppies once they have stopped being fed three times a day is once in the morning and once in the late afternoon. Routine is so important at this stage, so I recommend feeding your puppy twice a day in sync with your own breakfast and dinnertime meal – providing it’s not too late.

Most experts will say that the first feeding time could occur at around 7am when you wake up, and then they can have their daily exercise throughout the day. By the time 5pm comes around, the puppy will need the second meal of the day.

Don’t leave space between the puppies 2 meals any more than this, as they will become very hungry. You should always leave them a constant water bowl out though.

Handy Hint: Don’t take your puppy out as soon as he has finished eating as it can cause them problems. Here’s a guide on how long you need to wait after a meal before exercise.

By sticking to these twice daily feeding times, it gives the puppy enough time for food to digest properly in the evening before bedtime. It also means you will have a few hours in which to play more and burn off more excess energy before it’s sleepy time.

Another benefit to a 5pm feed is it reduces the chances of the puppy peeing and pooping indoors – you will hopefully have a few hours within which the food can digest and be pooped out.

And another big tip I can give you once you have stopped feeding your puppy 3 times a day is to not feed meals too late at night. As well as the pooping and peeing situation, it can also reduce restlessness on a full belly of food as they try to sleep – or feel they need to burn it off with late night activity.

And with regards to that activity, there’s also the aspect I alluded to earlier in my handy hint about when to walk your puppy after a feed. Here’s what that entails below.

How soon after feeding can I take my puppy walking?

This is important; do not take your puppy out for a walk as soon as they have finished eating. Whilst that might suit you and your routine, it can cause them health issues, particularly for highly active puppies.

The reason being, is that puppies can develop abdominal bloat or a twisted gut if they run about too soon after a meal. Vets tend to recommend you walk them at least an hour after their meal has been finished.

The opposite is true too, albeit a reduced timeframe. Vets recommend you don’t feed a puppy as soon as your return from a walk, but instead wait 15 minutes before one of their twice daily meals after 6 months of age.

There’s a good reason for this too:

“If your puppy is hot and panting, she needs to calm down before taking in any food. Otherwise, she’ll gobble her food down and end up with bloat again.”

So now you have the basics out the way regarding when to stop feeding puppy 3 times a day, you need to consider how much food to give them in the two meals.

This will all boil down to how big the puppy is and how much he weighs. The dog breed will also play a huge part in this which is why you will see specific breed foods offered by commercial dog food companies – some breeds are more active than others and need more to eat.

Another consideration will be whether your puppy is on a dry or wet food diet. There are some obvious signs to look out for if you are worried about over-feeding your puppy, including.

• Obvious signs of weight gain around the middle section of your dog: To mitigate this, you could regularly weight your puppy. This is quite easy. Step on the scales yourself and note the weight. Then do the same but with your puppy in yours arm. You can then subtract the difference to see your puppy’s weight.
• You can see your puppy’s ribs: On the flipside, you could be underfeeding your puppy when you stop feeding them 3 times a day. Don’t get me wrong, you should be able to feel them, that’s healthy. It’s when they stick out you should worry.
• Read the feeding guidance: This is the best way to make sure you’re feeding your puppy enough twice a day. The packaging will probably show you the total daily quantity so divide this into two half-meal servings.
• Don’t fall for your puppy’s charms: A begging puppy is hard to ignore, but don’t fall for their charms. They will eat whatever is front of them even if they are full up.

Once you have transitioned your puppy from 3 meals to 2, you will need to think about when it’s the right time to switch them onto adult food.

Puppy food is full of extra nutrients and calories to meet your puppy’s growing needs. But as they mature, they need less of the rich stuff.

Don’t make the switch to adult food too soon and seek advice from your vet. All dog breeds can be different I believe. For example, according to the Doggysaurus website:

“Smaller dog breeds mature quicker than larger dog breeds. So, if your little Dachshund is 7 to 10 months old, you can start switching them to adult food. Large breed dogs should reach 80 pounds before you start switching them to adult food. This can be anywhere between 12 and 16 months.”

Regardless, any switch to adult dog food should really be a gradual change. I was advised by my vet to introduce adult food into our puppy’s diet in small amounts over the course of two weeks. This can reduce the chances of an upset stomach and will reduce any possible stress to change they might have.

Conclusion

Time goes so quickly, and before you know it, your puppy will be a young fully grown adult dog rather than that small and helpless puppy you picked from the litter.

Cherish the early days, because it won’t be long before you will have to switch your puppy to 2 meals a day instead of 3.

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If you enjoyed this article about puppy ownership, you might also find these related pieces of content I’ve recently written useful too.

• How often will your puppy need to poop?
• How old do puppies need to be before you let them outside
• Why dogs breath heavy and fast through their nose when sleeping

Image in header via https://pixabay.com/photos/dog-feed-animal-mascot-puppy-pet-2393826/

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